The Cook, the Artist, his Wife, and Marina:
So old acquaintance be not forgot, go to Park Avenue Spring and ask for Plus One. The waiter at the upscale eatery will bring you a culinary artwork created by Paul Ramirez Jonas—the impish conceptualist who sent us scurrying across town a city-wide scavenger hunt—in collaboration with executive chef Kevin Lasko.
The piece, with echoes of symbols from Easter as well as Passover, is an ecumenical homage to absent loved ones. It comes with a small glass of red tonic (beets, sugar, water, rose syrup, yuzu juice) and an amuse-bouche (a picked egg garnished with crème fresh, horseradish, caviar, taro root, and dill). As the meal progresses, the liquid drips from a rectified wine glass onto a bed of eggshells, which gradually assume its hue.
The price, $5, goes to the public-art group Creative Time, which has staged four artists’ collaborations to change with the restaurant’s seasonal menu. For Lasko’s first partner, Marina Abramovic, he devised Volcano Flambé, a dessert infused with aphrodisiacs and real gold. In the fall he’ll work with Ramirez’s wife, Janine Antoni, who famously gnawed on soap and chocolate for her 1993 piece Lick and Lather. Then comes Michael Rakowitz, who teaches Baghdadi recipes to public audiences as part of Enemy Kitchen. Devising a recipe that fulfils the artist’s conceptual vision is the first challenge, Lasko says. Only then does he worry about making it taste good. But it always does.